Jumping Spider Care Guide for Beginners
- Ajinkya Chopade
- 15 hours ago
- 8 min read
Jumping spiders have become one of the most loved tiny pets because they are cute, active, curious, and very easy to look after. Their big eyes, gentle nature, and funny movements make them perfect even for beginners who have never kept any spider before. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about jumping spider care.
Jumping spiders do not need big tanks, complicated equipment, or expensive setups. With the right environment, the right food, and a little attention, they live happy, active, and healthy lives. This complete care guide will help you understand their needs, behaviour, feeding routine, health, and handling in a friendly and beginner-safe way.
1. Understanding Basic Needs
Jumping spiders have very simple needs, but they are different from other pets. Learning these basics will help you create a comfortable and safe home for them.
Housing and Safety
Jumping spiders are active climbers and explorers. They love vertical space because they naturally live on bushes, bark, plants, and walls. They also need very good airflow because poor ventilation can cause mold, humidity problems, and health issues.
Ideal enclosure sizes:
Adults: 15–20 cm tall (6–8 inches)
Juveniles: 10–12 cm tall (4–5 inches)
Spiderlings: 5–8 cm tall (2–3 inches)
Setup basics:
Use plastic or acrylic enclosures with a secure lid.
Make sure there is good cross-ventilation so fresh air flows through the enclosure.
Add simple décor like twigs, small plants, and cork bark for climbing.
Use a thin layer of coco fibre or a paper towel as substrate.
Keep the top area clear so the spider can build its silk hammock.
Place the enclosure in a spot with a stable room temperature and no direct sunlight.
This simple setup keeps your jumping spider comfortable, active, and safe without needing any complicated equipment.
Natural Behaviour and Activity Patterns
Jumping spiders are diurnal, which means they are active during the day. You will see them exploring, hunting, and moving around mostly in daylight hours.
Common natural behaviours:
Exploring everything around them—they are curious.
Making silk hammocks for sleeping or molting.
Waving their front legs, or palps, to observe surroundings.
Jumping long distances to catch prey or move safely.
They are very intelligent compared to most spiders. They watch their prey, plan jumps, and interact with their environment. Understanding these behaviours helps you know what is normal and what is a sign of stress.
2. Ideal Environment
Providing the right temperature, humidity, and light cycle is essential for good jumping spider care. Their environment does not need to be perfect, but it must remain stable and safe for the spider to stay healthy and active.
Temperature and Humidity
Jumping spiders generally thrive in 21–28°C (70–82°F) with 50–70% humidity, depending on the species. Tropical species prefer slightly higher humidity, while temperate species are comfortable with moderate levels. It is very important to avoid direct sunlight, as it can overheat the enclosure, and never use heat mats, which can create unsafe hot spots. Keeping the enclosure at a stable room temperature is usually sufficient. Light misting of one wall every 1–3 days helps maintain humidity, but always allow the enclosure to dry between mists to prevent mold. Many hobbyists successfully keep jumpers using just stable room temperature and careful misting, though a small thermometer and hygrometer can help monitor conditions.
Light and Day-Night Cycle
Jumping spiders need a natural day–night rhythm to stay healthy. Normal room lighting or soft indirect sunlight is enough, and strong artificial lights are not necessary. At night, the room should be dark so the spider can rest properly. Jumping spiders are most active in the morning and early afternoon, while they usually sleep in silk hammocks during the night or evening. Maintaining this simple light cycle helps your spider stay energetic and behave naturally.
3. Feeding Routine
Feeding is one of the most enjoyable parts of jumping spider care because these spiders are natural hunters. Watching them stalk, observe, and pounce on their prey is not only fun but also helps you understand their natural behaviour better.
Insects
Jumping spiders eat only live insects. They do not eat fruits, plants, or dead bugs. Safe options include fruit flies for tiny spiderlings and small crickets, roaches, or soft mealworms for juveniles and adults. Blue bottle flies are excellent for active hunting, while waxworms can be given occasionally as a treat. Avoid offering large crickets, wild-caught insects, or bugs with hard exoskeletons, as these can injure your spider or carry harmful chemicals. Choosing an appropriate prey size is important because spiders rely on movement to recognize food.
Feeding Frequency
How often you feed depends on the spider’s age. Adults usually need food 2–3 times a week, while juveniles eat more often—around every 1–2 days. Tiny spiderlings should be fed almost daily, but with very small prey. A healthy, well-fed jumping spider will have a round, plump abdomen, while an overly swollen abdomen means the spider is being fed too much, and feeding should be reduced slightly. Keeping a consistent feeding routine helps your spider grow, molt well, and stay energetic.
Hydration
Jumping spiders do not drink from bowls. Instead, they drink tiny water droplets from the walls or décor of their enclosure. Lightly misting one side of the enclosure every 1–3 days provides enough moisture for them to drink. Always allow the enclosure to dry between mistings to prevent mold. A very small water dish with pebbles can be added, but it is optional and not necessary. Proper hydration is essential because dehydrated spiders can become slow, weak, and stressed.
4. Health Basics
A big part of good jumping spider care is learning to recognize what is normal and what may indicate a problem. Most health issues are caused by poor humidity, overheating, incorrect handling, or molting disturbances. Observing your spider regularly will help you detect early signs of stress or illness.
Signs of Stress
A healthy jumping spider is active, curious, and alert during the day. Signs of stress include staying on the ground for long periods, not responding to movement, moving very slowly, a shrinking abdomen, refusing food outside of molting, or hiding constantly. Stress usually occurs due to too much or too little humidity, an overly hot enclosure, excessive disturbances, keeping two spiders together, poor ventilation, or a dirty substrate. Adjusting the environment and minimizing disturbances can help your spider recover.
Normal vs Abnormal Behaviour
Normal Behaviour
Jumping spiders may build silk hammocks for resting, temporarily stop eating during pre-molt, move quickly when exploring, turn their heads to observe their surroundings, and jump confidently between surfaces. These behaviours indicate your spider is healthy and comfortable.
Abnormal Behaviour
Signs of abnormal behaviour include walking unsteadily or falling frequently, staying curled up, turning grey or dull suddenly, twitching legs, refusing food for weeks without molting, or having an extremely small and wrinkled abdomen. Molting is a critical stage in a spider’s life. During this time, spiders become still, hang upside down, and may appear stiff. Never disturb or feed them while they are molting. After a molt, wait 3–5 days before offering food again to ensure proper recovery.
5. How to Handle Jumping Spider?
Jumping spiders are gentle but delicate, so handling them should always be calm and careful. Handling is optional, and many keepers prefer to observe their spider rather than hold it frequently.
How to Approach
The safest way to approach your spider is slowly and calmly. Let the spider see your hand first, and approach from the front or side so you do not startle it. Encourage it to walk onto your hand by placing your finger near its front legs, or use a soft paintbrush to gently guide it if needed. Never grab, pinch, or trap the spider, as it can be easily injured.
How to Avoid Stressing the Spider?
Handle your spider only when it seems active and curious. Avoid handling during pre-molt or right after a meal, and do not blow on the spider, as they dislike airflow. Keep sessions short and close to the surface in case it jumps, and avoid loud sounds or sudden movements nearby. Gentle interaction is usually enjoyed by jumpers—they may explore your hand, jump between fingers, or watch you closely with their large, expressive eyes.
6. Breeding of Jumping Spiders
Breeding is possible but requires care. Only pair healthy adult males and females of the same species. Introduce the male carefully and watch for aggression. After mating, remove the male to prevent harm. Females lay silk egg sacs, which should be kept safe, slightly humid, and undisturbed. Once hatched, feed spiderlings tiny prey like fruit flies and keep them separate to prevent cannibalism.
Jumping spiders are among the easiest, cutest, and most rewarding tiny pets, especially for beginners. With the right setup and routine, they can live long, active, and healthy lives. Good jumping spider care is all about maintaining:
A safe, well-ventilated enclosure
Stable temperature and moderate humidity
Regular but not excessive feeding
Gentle handling
A clean, stress-free environment
Respect for their natural behaviour
By following this guide, you can create the perfect home for your jumping spider and enjoy their intelligent, playful, and curious nature every day. These tiny creatures bring big joy, and caring for them is simple, calming, and full of fun moments.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. How often should I feed my jumping spider?
It depends on its age. Spiderlings (baby spiders) often need feeding every 1–2 days with tiny prey like fruit flies. Juveniles may eat every 3–5 days, and adult jumping spiders typically do well with 2–3 feedings per week, or roughly every 5–10 days depending on prey size and the spider’s appetite.
Important: Feed prey that is no larger than the spider’s body length, and remove uneaten insects within a few hours to avoid stress or danger to your spider.
2. Do jumping spiders need a water dish?
No — jumping spiders do not drink from bowls like many other pets. Instead, they get water from tiny droplets created by light misting of the enclosure walls or decor.
Important:Â Never spray water directly on the spider. Mist one side of the enclosure and make sure droplets dry out so the environment stays safe and free from mold.
3. Can I keep more than one jumping spider together?
No. Jumping spiders are solitary by nature. Housing two or more together often leads to aggression or cannibalism. Each spider should have its own separate enclosure.
4. What temperature and humidity do they need?
The ideal temperature range is about 21–28 °C (70–82 °F). Jumping spiders can get stressed or overheated if placed in direct sunlight or very warm areas.For humidity, a moderate level — around 50–70% (depending on species) is good. Light misting every few days helps maintain humidity without overdoing it.
5. How can I tell if my jumping spider is healthy or stressed?
A healthy jumper is active, alert, curious, and explores during the day. Their abdomen should look rounded and plump. They build little silk hammocks, move confidently, and hunt live prey.Signs of stress or poor health include: shrivelled or very thin abdomen, refusal to eat (outside normal molting), staying only on the ground, lethargy or dull colour, or jerky/unsteady movement.If you notice these signs, check humidity, temperature, ventilation, and remove any leftover prey.
6. Is breeding jumping spiders easy, and can I do it?
Breeding is possible, but it’s more advanced than basic care. You need a healthy adult male and female of the same species, and they must be introduced carefully under close supervision. Females create silk egg sacs, which should be left undisturbed in a safe, slightly humid environment. After hatching, spiderlings must be separated to prevent cannibalism and fed tiny prey like fruit flies.Important: Even with careful breeding, aggression and risk are common, so beginners should start only when they feel confident with basic care.
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