Jumping Spider Health and Common Diseases Guide
- Ajinkya Chopade
- 1 day ago
- 9 min read
Jumping spiders are small, curious hunters that make wonderful pets. When they are healthy, they move quickly, explore their enclosure, stalk prey, build nests, and interact with their surroundings. But because of their tiny size and delicate bodies, even a small problem in their environment can affect their health. The good news is that most jumping spider health issues are preventable with simple care.
This guide explains the most common diseases and health problems in jumping spiders, how to spot early signs of illness, and what you can do to keep your spider safe and healthy.
Healthy jumping spiders are active hunters—and spotting small changes early can prevent big problems. A tiny droop in posture, a missed meal, or a dull patch on the body can be the first sign of dehydration, parasites, or molting trouble. Understanding these signs helps you save your pet before the situation becomes serious.
1. Common Health Issues in Jumping Spiders
Jumping spiders do not often suffer from “human-type diseases,” but they can face several health challenges related to their environment, hydration, cleanliness, and molting cycle. Below are the most common problems keepers should know.
Molting Problems (Stuck Molt)
Molting is the process by which a spider sheds its old exoskeleton to grow. Young spiders molt many times before becoming adults.
A stuck molt is one of the most dangerous issues for jumping spiders. If humidity is too low, if the spider is dehydrated, or if it is disturbed at the wrong time, the old exoskeleton may not come off properly.
When this happens, legs, abdomen, fangs, or mouthparts can remain trapped, which can quickly become fatal.
Common causes of stuck molts include:
Low humidity.
Dehydration.
Disturbance during molt.
Dirty or stressful enclosure.
Weakness from a poor diet.
A healthy molt needs calm, moisture, and zero stress.
To prevent stuck molts, always maintain proper humidity in the enclosure, provide regular hydration, and avoid handling the spider during pre-molt or molt. Keep the enclosure clean and calm, and ensure your spider gets a balanced diet to stay strong. Gentle care and stable conditions greatly reduce the risk of molting problems.
Dehydration
Dehydration is very common in captivity because many owners underestimate how much water a jumping spider needs. These spiders do not drink from bowls like other pets. Instead, they get moisture from their prey and from tiny water droplets in their enclosure. When a spider does not get enough moisture, its body starts showing clear warning signs.
Some common signs of dehydration include:
Shrivelled or sunken abdomen
Weak or shaky legs
Slow or tired movements
Loss of appetite
Trouble climbing surfaces
Difficulty molting
If dehydration gets worse, the spider may collapse or sit curled up with its legs pulled close to its body. This is a serious emergency and needs quick care with gentle misting and better humidity.
To prevent dehydration, provide light misting daily or as needed, keep the enclosure at the right humidity, and feed moist prey regularly. Avoid dry enclosures and ensure the spider has access to small water droplets. Regular observation helps catch dehydration early before it becomes serious.
Mites and External Parasites
Mites are very tiny moving dots that may appear on the spider, its web, or anywhere inside the enclosure. They often enter through feeder insects, dirty substrate, or plants. Some mites do not cause harm, but many can create serious problems for a jumping spider.
These harmful mites can:
Irritate the spider
Cause stress
Steal nutrition
Multiply very fast
A heavy mite infestation can weaken a spider and may even kill young or small spiders. The best way to prevent mites is to keep the enclosure clean, use fresh substrate, and always quarantine new feeder insects before offering them as food.
To prevent mites, quarantine new spiders and feeder insects for at least 7–14 days before introducing them. Keep the enclosure clean and dry, and replace the substrate regularly. Always inspect your spider and its habitat for signs of mites and remove them gently if spotted. Using separate tools for each enclosure also helps avoid cross-contamination.
Fungal or Bacterial Infections
Fungal or bacterial infections usually happen when there is too much moisture, poor airflow, or old prey left inside the enclosure. Jumping spiders are very sensitive to their surroundings, and a dirty or wet enclosure is the main reason these problems start. When mold or bacteria grow, the spider’s health can go down quickly.
Common signs include:
Fuzzy white or green mold
Dark patches on the spider’s body
Soft or discolored areas
Damp or bad-smelling substrate
Spider is becoming slow or refusing food
Fungal and bacterial infections can spread very fast if the enclosure stays wet or unclean, so early cleaning and better ventilation are very important.
Prevent infections by maintaining good ventilation in the enclosure and removing dead prey immediately. Use a dry substrate that can hold slight moisture without getting soggy, and avoid over-misting. Clean the enclosure regularly and check for mold or foul smells. Early intervention and proper enclosure care stop infections before they become serious.
Injuries from Falls, Handling, or Fights
Jumping spiders are agile, but they are also very fragile. Falls, rough handling, sudden drops, or shaking the enclosure can easily injure them. Even feeding accidents or fights during breeding can cause harm. These injuries can affect the spider’s movement and overall health.
Common injuries include:
Leg injuries or twisted legs
Broken or damaged abdomen
Internal injuries
Shock or high stress
Many keepers hurt spiders without meaning to, often because of unsafe climbing setups or handling the spider too roughly. Fights can also happen if the spider faces a strong or oversized prey. A safe and stable enclosure and very gentle handling help reduce the risk of injuries.
To prevent injuries, always provide a secure and stable enclosure, avoid placing it at high or risky spots, and handle the spider very gently. Feed appropriately sized prey and avoid housing multiple aggressive spiders together. Safe handling and careful enclosure setup greatly reduce the risk of accidents.
2. Recognising Signs of Illness
Jumping spiders hide weakness in the wild, so subtle changes matter. Early detection gives the spider the best chance of recovery.
Here are signs that a spider is unwell:
1. Refusing Food
If a spider skips one meal, it is normal. But if it refuses food again and again and is not in pre-molt, it may be dehydrated, stressed, or sick.
2. Lethargy
A spider that stops climbing, jumping, or reacting to movement is often showing low energy or illness.
3. Cramped or Drooped Legs
When a spider sits low with cramped or curled legs, it may be:
Dehydrated
Stuck in pre-molt
Weak
Sick
4. Tiny Moving Specks (Mites)
These tiny dots are easier to see on a light substrate or white paper and can irritate or harm the spider.
5. Difficulty Molting
If a spider hangs for too long without progress or has stuck pieces of old skin, it needs help quickly.
6. Discoloration or Mold on Body
Dark, soft, fuzzy, or wet patches are signs of infection or fungal growth.
7. Falls or Injuries
A spider that falls may limp, avoid jumping, or stop climbing. Injuries can make movement painful or risky.
Always handle an injured or weak spider gently and keep the environment calm to avoid extra stress.
3. Quarantine & Biosecurity
Quarantine is one of the most important steps in spider keeping, especially for those with multiple enclosures. It helps prevent mites, fungal infections, and hidden diseases from spreading to healthy spiders. Quarantining also gives you a chance to observe new spiders before spiders before introducing them to your main collection.
To practice good biosecurity, always quarantine new spiders and feeder insects for 7–14 days and use separate tools for each enclosure. Make sure to wash your hands before and after handling any spider habitat, and keep enclosures spaced apart so pests cannot move between them. Following these habits keeps your spiders safe, healthy, and stress-free.
4. When to Seek Professional Help
Not every problem can be solved at home. Although options are limited, some exotic veterinarians and experienced breeders can help.
Seek expert help if:
The spider is severely stuck in molt.
There is a major injury, such as a torn abdomen.
The spider is declining rapidly.
There are no improvements despite good care.
You see strange lumps, severe discoloration, or spreading infections.
In these cases, isolating the spider and keeping it clean and hydrated is essential until you get proper advice.
5. Preventive Routine for a Healthy Jumping Spider
A simple routine prevents almost all health issues. Here’s a clean and easy maintenance plan:
Daily
Observe your spider’s behavior to make sure it is active, alert, and moving normally.
Mist the enclosure lightly if you notice that humidity has dropped to ensure proper moisture levels.
Remove any uneaten prey promptly to prevent decay and avoid attracting mites or mold.
Weekly
Perform a spot cleaning of the enclosure to remove waste, leftover food, and any visible debris.
Check carefully for mites, mold, or foul smells that could indicate a hygiene problem or potential infection.
Monthly
Replace the substrate completely to maintain a clean and safe living environment.
Clean the walls, lid, and décor of the enclosure thoroughly to remove hidden dirt, mold, or pests.
Rotate feeder insects and discard any that are unhealthy to ensure your spider is eating fresh, safe prey.
Every New Addition
Quarantine for 7–14 days
Use different tools to avoid cross-contamination
A clean, dry, well-ventilated environment with correct humidity ensures your spider stays healthy and active.
Jumping spiders are hardy and low-maintenance pets, but they require excellent husbandry. Most health issues, such as dehydration, stuck molts, parasites, and fungal infections, are preventable with simple daily care. Providing a clean enclosure, maintaining proper humidity and good ventilation, practising safe handling, offering healthy feeders, and performing regular monitoring are all key to keeping your tiny hunter healthy, active, and stress-free. Good husbandry truly is the best medicine, and by staying observant and maintaining a clean, well-kept environment, your jumping spider can enjoy a long, healthy, and happy life.
FAQ's About Jumping Spider Health and Care
1. How do I know if my jumping spider is healthy?
A healthy jumping spider is active, alert, and curious, moving around its enclosure and responding to prey. Its legs are straight and strong, the abdomen is firm and not shriveled, and its body color appears vibrant and normal. Healthy spiders usually eat regularly and show normal molting patterns. Any lethargy, discoloration, or unusual posture can be an early warning sign of health issues. Regular observation and proper husbandry help you spot problems early.
2. What should I do if my jumping spider refuses to eat?
Spiders may skip a meal occasionally, especially if they are pre-molting, but repeated refusal can indicate stress, dehydration, or illness. First, check the humidity, temperature, and enclosure cleanliness. Offer appropriate-sized prey and ensure it is alive and healthy. Avoid disturbing the spider and give it a quiet, safe environment. If refusal continues for more than a few days, consider consulting an experienced keeper or exotic vet.
3. How can I prevent dehydration in my jumping spider?
Dehydration is a common problem in captivity. Jumping spiders do not drink from bowls like other pets; they get moisture from prey and tiny water droplets in the enclosure. To prevent dehydration, lightly mist the enclosure daily if humidity drops, provide moist prey, and monitor the spider’s abdomen and movement. Signs of dehydration include sunken abdomen, weak legs, and difficulty molting. Maintaining proper humidity and regular hydration ensures the spider stays healthy.
4. How can I help my spider during molting?
Molting is a delicate process. A spider may become inactive, hide, or refuse food before molting. Ensure proper humidity and avoid handling during this period. Keep the enclosure calm, clean, and free from disturbances. After molting, wait 2–3 days before feeding so the spider’s new exoskeleton hardens properly. Intervening too early or handling the spider can cause serious injury or stuck molts.
5. When should I seek professional help for my jumping spider?
Not all health issues can be managed at home. Seek professional help if the spider is severely stuck in molt, has a major injury, or is declining rapidly. Other warning signs include strange lumps, severe discoloration, or spreading infections. In the meantime, isolate the spider in a clean, safe enclosure and keep it hydrated until you can get guidance from an exotic vet or experienced breeder.
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